You may not know this, but I am a 4 year veteran of the Forever Twilight in Forks Festival (FTF Festival). My first time attending in 2015 was a surreal experience going with Stephenie Meyer (yes, the author of Twilight) for the 10th Anniversary of Twilight. I wrote about my first time in Forks, Washington and the Olympic Peninsula here, which is a good read into thoughts I still have on that area. I went back in 2016, as Nikki and I were working with the Forks Chamber of Commerce to promote the FTF festival online, and we just completed our 3rd trip with them.I even got my very own Forks speeding ticket from a Forks police officer (‘sup Jackson) this year!
Forks is the kind of place where everyone knows everyone. And when people are passing through, it’s obvious they are outsiders. And people pass through all the time. In fact, despite this year’s FTF festival being the largest yet with over 500 tickets sold (so with guests, I’m guessing there were upwards of 1000 extra people in a town of just 3500), I saw so many non-Twilight fans. There were the group of drunk hunters who were a few doors down from us at the Forks Motel. There were multiple groups of bikers coming out of the rainforest who rolled into a town looking for a place to stay, and one day it actually took us almost 4 minutes to turn left on the main road because of all the RV Traffic. That is a LONG TIME in a town with one traffic light.
But what do I really think of Forks, Washington?
Back in 2015 I said this:
Imagine any small town near you- I’m imagining a little town down the street from where I grew up- in the middle of nowhere being completely changed because an author sets her best-selling, once-in-a-lifetime story there. I overheard someone in the Welcome Center say that in the hay day 100,000 -150,000 people would visit Forks annually. From ALL over the world. There is nothing there guys! There is no reason to visit. You would maybe stop in town for gas and a water on your way to La Push if it were not for Twilight. These days they are averaging 30-40,000 visitors per year. That town has an industry because the Cullen’s decided to move there.
And I feel the same. I think Forks has found more of a special place in my heart after attending all these years, meeting locals, knowing their names, their stories, exploding the outskirts of town where you really should live if you want the true small town, lots of land experience.
Forks isn’t quaint. It’s any small town USA with one main road going through it. It’s a place to fuel up and grab a strong cup of gas station coffee. It’s a place to sleep after 5 days on the mountain.
And yet.. I keep going back.
So when you, too, inevitably go to Forks, here is what you need to know:
Where to Stay in Forks:
Each year we’ve stayed at the Forks Motel, a no fuss roadside motel right in the center of town. Pros: It’s cleaner than it looks and walkable to everything in town. Cons: The wi-fi isn’t very strong.
We’ve heard the Miller Tree Inn is a quaint B&B (known as “The Cullen House” in town) with good breakfast each morning and friendly service.
Where to Eat in Forks:
Coming from a city with easy access to the world’s best (and healthiest) food just steps away from my front door, Nikki and I always stop at Whole Foods on our way to Forks (the closest one is 3 hours away). We stock up on our favorite LaCroix, make a cheese plate, grab veggies and fruit and some decent chips and salsa. But when we’re not entertaining in our room, we recommend eating at:
Sully’s Drive-In: Sully’s has an edible burger (one of them is called The “Bella Burger,” of course) plus a decent veggie burger on the menu. It has cheese mixed it, so if you’re vegan you’re out of luck, but anything is decent with pickles added. Plus you can never go wrong with tots.
And since you’re already embarking on a week full of fried food, what’s another 750 calories, ya know? Get the milkshake. They’ll make you an Oreo one if you ask nicely.
Pacific Pizza:
The best meal in town is at Pacific Pizza. It’s not East-Coast style pizza, but it’s decent and they have a great salad bar. And greens are a rarity at the restaurants in Forks, so that is a plus!
Where to get Coffee:
Jitterbugs Coffee and Aeon Comics is a new cafe in Forks with decent coffee and a comic shop right inside! Plus they had homemade baked goods that looked delicious, and the owner and the two baristas we met were super friendly.
Coffee shacks:
I thought this was a Forks specialty, but I saw them in Portland too. The PNW is know for these roadside “Shacks” that you can drive (or walk) up to and order coffee. Maybe it’s because it’s so rainy up there and people don’t want to get out of their cars? Either way, it’s convenient, the coffee is ‘fine’ * and they have bagels.
* I am a coffee snob. But it’s drinkable
Where to buy stuff:
The Thriftway Grocery Store (and Forks Outfitters) has a surprisingly great selection of PNW wine.. Say hi to Mike Newton while you’re there! (Actually, just say hi to Justice for me, and ask him to page Bella over the loudspeaker. You can blame it on me)
Bonus Round!
Where to get a Salad in Forks: Pacific Pizza, but its not refillable! Get the large and pile on that lettuce!
Where to get breakfast in Forks: Currently there’s only one restaurant, The Inn Place, and it’s not even as good as most diners I’ve been to. I’d grab a bagel or yogurt at one of the coffee shacks.
Where to get married in Forks: Fern Acres, but Tina is booked through 2019!
Where to eat close to Forks (South): Kalaloch Lodge at Olympic National Park. GORGEOUS VIEWS, Great food (and wine!)
Where to eat close to Forks (east): Granny’’s Cafe in Port Angles. We are obsessed with this place.
Forks is situated among the most beautiful greenery, oceans, trees and mountains I have ever seen. If the town had one little cafe with fresh foods, something green and interesting ‘local’ fare, it would go a long way… to impress me. But.. Forks is a stop through town for hikers, backpackers, bikers and hunters. Forks has affordable gas, warm coffee and clean beds. And every September, with or without free refills on the salad bar, I’ll probably be back. Edward Cullen is from there, guys!